Tuesday, Oct 4 - Madrid
(On the train again, from Madrid to Granada. This is turning out to be the only time I have a block of time to write).
10 am check out from our AirBNB in Barcelona but our train didn't leave until 1:30. We went to the train station and stored our bags in 'left luggage' and then found a place close by. Breakfast (cured meat for me, potato omelet for Alisma) and a bit of a wander.
We arrived in Madrid in the late afternoon. After walking around the station for bit, I discovered that I had lost an earring. My favourite earrings that I wear always. We were in the middle of Madrid train station, having hoisted my pack on and off from the apartment to Barcelona train station, to the train to when I discovered it was missing. That thing could have been anywhere. But onward, no time to dwell
We had to call Ana, our next AirBNB contact. Another pay phone but this one worked on the first try. But Ana doesn't speak English so I got to talk to her. She had sent detailed instructions on how to get to the apartment but on the phone she kept going on about how to get there. She spoke fast and all I was getting was Calle Mayor, the main street. Speak slowly, use less words. Nope, she talked until we ran out of time. We called again and she did the same. So, we didn't call back, we decided to find it and hope she was there.
Well, it didn't take long to figure out what she had been trying to tell me. We found Metro station entrance and discovered it was closed. There were instructions on how to take the bus but at that point, we just decided to take a cab.
Another arrival at AirBNB and another wait on the stoop. This is the downside of AirBNB, the contact and meet up. But she arrived in 10 or so minutes. The apartment is fine. I am sleeping in the kitchen again. A better bed this time though.
We were pretty worn out from our crazy schedule in Barcelona so we decided to just go out for dinner and then early to bed. Tapas and wine, very little wandering.
Wednesday, October 5 - Madrid
The next morning, I was lying in my bed when I noticed, in the tiny pocket of my t-shirt that I had worn the day before and then slept in, there was my earring. Seriously, that pocket is small and that earring could have gone anywhere. Remember my last post, where I had lit a candle with the saint of lost things (maybe). Well, I like to think that was Nanny taking care of me. She had been an adventurous traveler back in her day too.
Breakfast (cured meat, potato omelet sandwiches) and then we wanted to go to the Palace. We are close to the Palace, museum and attached gardens so we just walked over. But when we arrived at the Palace, it had a "closed unti 2:30 for official business' sign. It is used by the government some how so we assumed there was an offical function. It was only 10:30 so we decided to go to the museum (in a church) and then decide what to do.
The museum was not too exciting. Lots of religious paintings and elaborately decorated robes and chalaises and chairs. The Pope has visited and sanctified the church so he was everywhere (John Paul II). Plus, there were signs that no photos were allowed. AND, we were near a school group of 12 year olds. We got ahead of them but they caught up to us on the balcony. We had paused there because it was such a good view of the palace and courtyard. So we decided to wait there to let the kids get far enough ahead of us. As we were looking out at the palace, we noticed fancy guards and that people were starting to line up along the gate. What were they guarding/waiting for?
We stayed on the balcony for a bit more. It was almost 11am and we didn't have anywhere to be. The started to block off the courtyard and corral the tourists into roped off sections. Then a drummer and flutist and some marching guards came out of the palace and did a circle around the edge of the courtyard. More people were massing at the gates and they had started to let some people into the courtyard who entered a viewing pen. We still didn't really know what was happening.
Then some guards on horses arrived and did some ceremonial standing about. It was so much pomp. There was only a few people on the balcony and we had such a good view. Eventually, one of the other people asked a woman who worked there what was happening. Turns out it wasn't a state visit or anything to do with the government, it was the changing of the guard, the fancy one that only happens once a month. And there were signs all over the balcony that viewing of the changing of the guards was not allowed from the balcony. But the lady told the other tourist that since we were being quiet, we could stay. Such luck. We just happened to be there on the right day of the week and month. We just happened to arrive early enough to be allowed in before the museum was closed for new visitors, we just happened to pause on the balcony. Had we left the balcony, we would not have been allowed back on.
Between 11 and 12, we watched the military guards do crowd control and watched the ceremonial guards get ready. Bands played and marched around and a few horses did some small but entertaining stuff.
www.esmadrid.com/en/solemn-relief-and-changing-of-the-guard-at-the-royal-palace
Then the bells rang noon and everything really ramped up. We could hear horses and music coming up the street beside the palace. The band led, followed by a regiment (?) of guards, then lots of horses from up the street into the plaza between the palace and the museum, right below us. Then they all entered the palace courtyard. Then lots of marching about and a few cannon blasts, then some more marching about. Eventually, the guards who had come out of the palace were replaced by the guards who had arrived from the street. The brown horses were replaced by white horses. And then they all marched into the palace or out the gates again and back up the street. The end, except for the street cleaners who had to deal with a courtyard full of horse 'evidence' before the tourists were allowed to start tramping back in.
It was almost 1pm by this time so we finished up our museum/church tour. Up to the dome with amazing views of the city. And down to the crypt.
We headed back to the apartment to hang our laundry and figure out what to do next. Alisma is starting to get a cold so she had to research how to ask for cold medicine at the pharmacy.
We decided to got for lunch/dinner and then visit a really old alley with a couple of 'century shops'. Madrid has a list of businesses in town that are more than 100 years old.
I fell for the crappy Paella again. No more Paella for me unless I see a vat of it being mixed old school method.
Then off to alley San Gines. First up, a chocolatier. Opened in 1864. We thought this would be a chocolate shop like a place to buy candy etc. Nope, hot chocolate and churros. That's the whole menu. What were we to do? Have some chocolate and churros, that's what. The hot chocolate is not like our hot chocolate. I think it is just melted chocolate in a cup. Served with 6 churros each. That is about 6 feet of churro. And we had just had dinner. But we suffered through, for the sake of science (let's go with that anyway).
www.comercioscentenariosdemadrid.es/webapp/index_eng.html
Next shop, Libreria San Gines, opened in the 1600s. Poked around the bins a bit but there were only a couple of books in English (one of them on invitro fertilization of humans so you know the selection was not good). We didn't buy anything but we looked at it all.
Wander, wander.
Then it was time to start about our next event, tickets to the live 'Welcome to Nightvale' taping. The theater was close to a huge park so we went early to visit the park. Wander, sit and contemplate, wander, sit and listen to live music, wander.
Off to the show. It was held in Barclay Centre. This is a very large venue, we were impressed that a little podcast could sell out an arena. Well, after going through security, we discovered that there was some big event int he main arena and our event was around the corner, in a side room. It was so small, they just had a list of names, no scanning tickets for this event. A makeshift stage and a few dozen folding chairs. And a crowd of young geek-chic people wearing Nightvale clothing and holding Nightvale books. The show was great. Theme, ghost stories.
Then home by midnight. Up early again for our 9:30 train. And here we are. Up to date (until I try to add pictures). Madrid is a great city. Very young and cultural.
Next stop Granada.
(On the train again, from Madrid to Granada. This is turning out to be the only time I have a block of time to write).
10 am check out from our AirBNB in Barcelona but our train didn't leave until 1:30. We went to the train station and stored our bags in 'left luggage' and then found a place close by. Breakfast (cured meat for me, potato omelet for Alisma) and a bit of a wander.
We arrived in Madrid in the late afternoon. After walking around the station for bit, I discovered that I had lost an earring. My favourite earrings that I wear always. We were in the middle of Madrid train station, having hoisted my pack on and off from the apartment to Barcelona train station, to the train to when I discovered it was missing. That thing could have been anywhere. But onward, no time to dwell
We had to call Ana, our next AirBNB contact. Another pay phone but this one worked on the first try. But Ana doesn't speak English so I got to talk to her. She had sent detailed instructions on how to get to the apartment but on the phone she kept going on about how to get there. She spoke fast and all I was getting was Calle Mayor, the main street. Speak slowly, use less words. Nope, she talked until we ran out of time. We called again and she did the same. So, we didn't call back, we decided to find it and hope she was there.
Well, it didn't take long to figure out what she had been trying to tell me. We found Metro station entrance and discovered it was closed. There were instructions on how to take the bus but at that point, we just decided to take a cab.
Another arrival at AirBNB and another wait on the stoop. This is the downside of AirBNB, the contact and meet up. But she arrived in 10 or so minutes. The apartment is fine. I am sleeping in the kitchen again. A better bed this time though.
We were pretty worn out from our crazy schedule in Barcelona so we decided to just go out for dinner and then early to bed. Tapas and wine, very little wandering.
 |
| Potato chips, papas bravas, chicken fingers, fried eggplant with honey, cod croquettes (like deep fried fish goo, not my fave) |
 |
The next morning, I was lying in my bed when I noticed, in the tiny pocket of my t-shirt that I had worn the day before and then slept in, there was my earring. Seriously, that pocket is small and that earring could have gone anywhere. Remember my last post, where I had lit a candle with the saint of lost things (maybe). Well, I like to think that was Nanny taking care of me. She had been an adventurous traveler back in her day too.
Breakfast (cured meat, potato omelet sandwiches) and then we wanted to go to the Palace. We are close to the Palace, museum and attached gardens so we just walked over. But when we arrived at the Palace, it had a "closed unti 2:30 for official business' sign. It is used by the government some how so we assumed there was an offical function. It was only 10:30 so we decided to go to the museum (in a church) and then decide what to do.
 |
| Palacio Real (from the balcony) |
The museum was not too exciting. Lots of religious paintings and elaborately decorated robes and chalaises and chairs. The Pope has visited and sanctified the church so he was everywhere (John Paul II). Plus, there were signs that no photos were allowed. AND, we were near a school group of 12 year olds. We got ahead of them but they caught up to us on the balcony. We had paused there because it was such a good view of the palace and courtyard. So we decided to wait there to let the kids get far enough ahead of us. As we were looking out at the palace, we noticed fancy guards and that people were starting to line up along the gate. What were they guarding/waiting for?
We stayed on the balcony for a bit more. It was almost 11am and we didn't have anywhere to be. The started to block off the courtyard and corral the tourists into roped off sections. Then a drummer and flutist and some marching guards came out of the palace and did a circle around the edge of the courtyard. More people were massing at the gates and they had started to let some people into the courtyard who entered a viewing pen. We still didn't really know what was happening.
Then some guards on horses arrived and did some ceremonial standing about. It was so much pomp. There was only a few people on the balcony and we had such a good view. Eventually, one of the other people asked a woman who worked there what was happening. Turns out it wasn't a state visit or anything to do with the government, it was the changing of the guard, the fancy one that only happens once a month. And there were signs all over the balcony that viewing of the changing of the guards was not allowed from the balcony. But the lady told the other tourist that since we were being quiet, we could stay. Such luck. We just happened to be there on the right day of the week and month. We just happened to arrive early enough to be allowed in before the museum was closed for new visitors, we just happened to pause on the balcony. Had we left the balcony, we would not have been allowed back on.
Between 11 and 12, we watched the military guards do crowd control and watched the ceremonial guards get ready. Bands played and marched around and a few horses did some small but entertaining stuff.
www.esmadrid.com/en/solemn-relief-and-changing-of-the-guard-at-the-royal-palace
 |
| Guards |
 |
| The crowds start massing at the gate |
 |
| Drums and flutes start marching around |
 |
| Bayonettes! |
 |
| Brown horses |
 |
| Entering the courtyard |
 |
| Guarding the palace |
Then the bells rang noon and everything really ramped up. We could hear horses and music coming up the street beside the palace. The band led, followed by a regiment (?) of guards, then lots of horses from up the street into the plaza between the palace and the museum, right below us. Then they all entered the palace courtyard. Then lots of marching about and a few cannon blasts, then some more marching about. Eventually, the guards who had come out of the palace were replaced by the guards who had arrived from the street. The brown horses were replaced by white horses. And then they all marched into the palace or out the gates again and back up the street. The end, except for the street cleaners who had to deal with a courtyard full of horse 'evidence' before the tourists were allowed to start tramping back in.
 |
| The brown horses and troops arrive |
 |
| And enter the gate |
 |
| The crowd swells |
 |
| The band does some fancy figure work |
 |
| At attention |
 |
| Now the white horses arrive |
 |
| current troops on the right (top) new troops on the left (bottom) |
 |
| current troops leaving their post |
 |
| The band leads on |
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| Out the gate |
 |
| The lone white horse guard stays |
 |
| And clean up |
 |
| We lucked out. We were where we were not supposed to be. |
It was almost 1pm by this time so we finished up our museum/church tour. Up to the dome with amazing views of the city. And down to the crypt.
 |
 |
| The dome |
 |
| The view |
 |
| More view |
 |
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| The Crypt |
 |
We headed back to the apartment to hang our laundry and figure out what to do next. Alisma is starting to get a cold so she had to research how to ask for cold medicine at the pharmacy.
We decided to got for lunch/dinner and then visit a really old alley with a couple of 'century shops'. Madrid has a list of businesses in town that are more than 100 years old.
I fell for the crappy Paella again. No more Paella for me unless I see a vat of it being mixed old school method.
Then off to alley San Gines. First up, a chocolatier. Opened in 1864. We thought this would be a chocolate shop like a place to buy candy etc. Nope, hot chocolate and churros. That's the whole menu. What were we to do? Have some chocolate and churros, that's what. The hot chocolate is not like our hot chocolate. I think it is just melted chocolate in a cup. Served with 6 churros each. That is about 6 feet of churro. And we had just had dinner. But we suffered through, for the sake of science (let's go with that anyway).
www.comercioscentenariosdemadrid.es/webapp/index_eng.html
 |
| That is too much churro and chocolate for one person |
 |
Wander, wander.
 |
 |
 |
Then it was time to start about our next event, tickets to the live 'Welcome to Nightvale' taping. The theater was close to a huge park so we went early to visit the park. Wander, sit and contemplate, wander, sit and listen to live music, wander.
 |
| Parque de Buen Retiro (Park of Pleasant Retreat) |
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| Kitten Alert! |
 |
 |
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| Autumn |
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| Sunset |
 |
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| Live music This guy is Madrid level cool |
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| S'up, pup? |
 |
Off to the show. It was held in Barclay Centre. This is a very large venue, we were impressed that a little podcast could sell out an arena. Well, after going through security, we discovered that there was some big event int he main arena and our event was around the corner, in a side room. It was so small, they just had a list of names, no scanning tickets for this event. A makeshift stage and a few dozen folding chairs. And a crowd of young geek-chic people wearing Nightvale clothing and holding Nightvale books. The show was great. Theme, ghost stories.
 |
| Very small venue |
 |
| Cecil, accompanied by Disporition |
Then home by midnight. Up early again for our 9:30 train. And here we are. Up to date (until I try to add pictures). Madrid is a great city. Very young and cultural.
Next stop Granada.
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